This one has light tower power in terms of old school masculinity.
It starts out utterly filthy, with civet skank, earthy powdery cocoa patchouli. Both of these pieces give the feeling of a rawhide leather. I can also pick out an indolic jasmine going on in here too adding to the funk but offering a smooth touch.
Once it settles in a bit, it flicks off the civet and plows on as a dark, warm, buttery leather with some serious projection. The projection definitely smells soft and powdery from far out but rich, spicy, earthy up close.
In the base it moves more toward the darkness. Roasted, toasted, smoky coffee grounds, a flare of incense and that cocoa patchouli, similar to Guerlain’s L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme, raging in the background.
The base is most similar to a relatively unknown fragrance, Von Eusersdorff Classic Patchouli with its topsoil, camphor and cocoa combo with a smooth sandalwood touch to smooth it all over. They’re both very close to finish, but Classic Patchouli is much cleaner at the top.
Other fragrances I can compare this to are Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Eau des Iles, Givenchy Gentleman in vintage form as well as Balenciaga Pour Homme. All uber masculine and could be uncomfortable for some modern noses accustomed to cleaned up, sterilized offerings.
Performance is big, unrelenting and near tattoo level in longevity.
Lui is a deeply satisfying fragrance for those that prefer dirt and grit of heritage over sterilized contemporary alternatives.
A dirtied up foghorn in the opening that leads to a darkened, warm spicy finish.
Surely old school and nearly guaranteed to get the stank eye from the masses.
Wear it anyway, you’ve come this far, who cares what anyone thinks? That’s Lui.