Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Vetiver Oriental is an interesting cross of green earth and softness with a sparkle on top.

What this fragrance reminds me of at the start is Dior’s Eau Sauvage Parfum (2012) (Green Vetiver + Sparkle) mixed with a touch of L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme (EDP) (Chocolate + Sparkle).

I’m not certain this is deserving of the classification of “Oriental”, the ambery push isnt big and out in front like most orientals, the woody elements are more prominent in the opening and mid.

Only at the very end does it show its namesake as more of a buttery, sweet amber, similar to where Histoires de Parfums 1740 goes. Nice!

It has a similar approach for most of its wearing life as Eau Sauvage Parfum (2012) but a much reduced reach for a more private wearing.
Classy but versatile, fairly simple but well executed.

I have a sample of the new labeled bottle and a 2009 original bottle of the “Royal Palace” label, seen above. They are not the same from what I am smelling. There is something darker, more chocolate in the original bottle, with the newer labeled bottle brighter throughout. Both have similar longevity, around 5-6 hours.

The subtle difference could be a characteristic of maceration, but it seems there is an opaque chocolate note in the original bottle. It is not a soft, fluffy chocolate like in L’Instant de Guerlain Extreme (EDP) or in Dior Homme Intense. Its a bit flat and hanging out deep in the base.

That said, I dont think an original bottle is worth a premium price.
Both the old and new bottle wear very similar.

To me it smells best suited for a cozy evening out to dinner, in the winter with friends.

A classy composition that blurs the lines of classification. $80/100ml
  • 8/10
    Fragrance - 8/10
  • 6/10
    Performance - 6/10


If you’re into fragrances like Dior’s Eau Sauvage Parfum 2012 (Opening) and Histoires de Parfums 1740 (Base), Serge Luten’s Vetiver Oriental will fit right in, as long as you dont expect a fragrance that shouts your presence. 

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